Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
